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Devon Cafe, Surry Hills

All I have been craving is a Devon Cafe cronut. Crispy fried layers of buttery puff pastry coated in sugared matcha or topped with salted caramel, candied popcorn and chocolate…

It didn’t help that images of it were plastered on all social media outlets whenever I logged on. I couldn’t bear it any longer, so we hauled ass at 6:30am to avoid the congested Sydney workday traffic to arrive here at 7am for those indulgent pastries.

Turns out at Devon Cafe, cronuts are only available on the weekend. Ouch. I was so utterly devastated. Then our waitress Emi  gave us some great suggestions instead, freshly baked chocolate muffins with the melted nutella filling spewing out from the top, French pastries and so on but I only wanted a cronut so I’m going to take up on that offer another time.

However cronuts are available everyday at the other location; Devon on Danks in Waterloo which is only a short 10 minute drive away but we just stuck to our plan and ate there.



 

Coffee $4 – Hot and strong to warm up with on a Sydney winter’s morning.

Eggs Blini – Buckwheat blini, cured king salmon, salmon caviar, brocolini, sauce Mikado and poached eggs $20

Now tell me you couldn’t just stare longingly at this image all day? It’s unseemly to call a plate of food highly attractive but it’s seriously good looking. I love the composition, the way the sauce coats the eggs and how the curls of salmon peek out underneath. Not only that, the cured king salmon is a definite highlight, it’s slightly oily as good cured salmon should be. Other well-executed elements are the perfectly poached eggs slathered in sauce Mikado; hollandaise combined with mandarin juice, lending it an apparent citrusy flavour. The result is a rich, buttery sauce with a nice hint of acidity. Ash felt the buckwheat blini was a bit too cakey but like a lot of critiques it’s a matter of personal preference. A delicious, gorgeous-looking and satisfying dish all in one.

 

Da’ Royale – Truffle sausage, pomme puree, Lamb’s fry, fried egg, onion jus $23

Like many early mornings, I choose to have a very rich, hearty start to the day that involves meat, carbs and protein. My Da’Royale consisted of Lamb’s fry, a very smooth and buttery pomme puree, a fat sausage, sunny side up egg, onion jus and lightly charred, pickled onion pieces. Lamb’s fry is the brain coated in breadcrumbs and I love offal done well so relish in it. I couldn’t detect any truffle in the sausage so this left me feeling a tad let down since having truffle was the drawcard for me. I can see there’s some fine dining touches made to this ‘bangers and mash’ type dish but I think it could have used some more.

I had an enjoyable time and some great tasting meals but I have only some minor criticisms of Devon :

- the price is pretty steep, however I think this is justifiable to an extent, eating out is mostly a treat
- no cronuts on weekdays is a business decision I respect but I think it would be so beneficial to include it at both cafes, not just the one.

So my first impressions are positive, despite feeling underwhelmed by the Da’ Royale I can definitely see myself coming back to try new dishes, paying a visit to sister cafe, Devon on Danks and booking a dinner at Devon by Night too.

Opening hours

Mon – Fri 7:00 am – 4:30 pm
Sat & Sun 8:00 am – 3:30 pm

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